As I prepare to leave Thailand, I have the acute feeling that I will also be leaving a piece of myself behind. Living in Bangkok marks the first time that I have truly set out to live somewhere on my own, with no close friends or family nearby, and no concrete plan. It was a challenge that I took on willingly, in pursuit of changing my life for the better. I am happy to report that this has, indeed, come to fruition.
During my time here, I was determined not to live life as a tourist, but to truly set out to learn more about this country, and the people who comprise it. I did this in several ways, including taking Thai language courses (pǒm pûut paa-sǎa-tai dâi nít-nòi), training in the sacred art of muaythai, and, of course, enjoying Thai food.
I am a firm believer that, as a collective society, we really aren’t very different; we just have different ways of expressing ourselves. One of the most-endearing pieces of Thailand that I will take with me is the hospitality and ingratiating nature of the people. As is common in many Asian cultures, nearly every interaction is punctuated with a series of bows, but Thai people manage to make this small gesture even warmer with sincere smiles and wonderful inflections of their voices. For instance, when walking the streets, you hear the calling of voices in what constitutes a kind of song, with long, drawn-out vowels as shopkeepers try to entice people to come into their shops, or thank their patrons as they leave.
Sawàtdii khâ!
Khàawp khun khâ!
It adds a wonderful musical element to the often grinding and cacophonous city life in Bangkok, which still carries with it the fierce drive of a developing nation.
Thai people also have a wonderful sense of humor, and are never more than a moment away from a smile. They are often direct, too, with many brazenly making comments about my status as a ‘faràng’, or ‘foreigner.’ It never comes across as malicious, but rather a manifest curiosity. My Thai language instructor was simply perplexed as to why I would want to learn Thai when I would only be here for a few months, and we shared many hilarious moments as she tried to teach me to haggle for fruit at local markets, Thai-style. I still haven’t gotten the hang of it, as evidenced by the fact that, when she asked for a discount, I immediately quoted her a higher price on the durian than I originally stated.
However, Bangkok is not only inhabited by locals, but a veritable sea of ethnicities and nationalities, which I quickly came to realize. My fútbol matches are a who’s who of players from all over, and it made my appreciation for the universal language of the beautiful game that much greater. Some are like myself - travelers spending time hopping around South East Asia, enjoying the scenery and a bit of a break from their lives back home. Conversely, I also encountered many who had come here, decided to stay, and have settled down and had families in Thailand. A good few have fallen in love with the ‘sabaai sabaai’ philosophy, the intention to enjoy a restful and stress-free life that seems to permeate this land.
I was fortunate enough to venture out to Krabi, one of the world’s renowned beaches, which combines stunning mountain landscapes with pristine shorelines, as well as dense rainforest. Although I was there during rainy season, and wasn’t able to walk along the sand, I indulged in some of the best seafood I have yet to find, and enjoyed a traditional Thai massage, as well. I marveled at the cows and buffalos, calmly munching on grass just inches away from speeding cars and motorbikes. They seem to understand what Thai life is all about, too.
Living in a new place is the steady process of uncovering its true essence, day by day. Now, I can catch a phrase or two in Thai, and I’ve become bolder in ordering my food ‘Thai spicy,’ a benchmark that any traveler here would appreciate. One of the greatest privileges of our modern world is the ability to explore it in ways that previous generations may never have imagined possible. I know that I will return here in the future, and look forward to finding more reasons why people from across the globe fall in love with this place. Until then, a hearty khàawp khun khráp to everyone who has made me feel welcome here.
Next stop, China.
